Fall Yard & Lawn Care

With autumn upon us and winter rapidly approaching, you're probably not spending much time thinking about your lawn. But autumn, with its cooler temperatures and occasional rainfall, is the perfect time to prepare your lawn for next spring.  Cooling temperatures slow above ground growth, and moist soil encourages strong root development.  Many homeowners think lawns need less care in the fall because the grass grows more slowly. In fact, just the opposite is true. During autumn, grass is busily absorbing energy, moisture, and nutrients in preparation for a long, dormant winter.

Here are some steps to help get your lawn ready:

Aerate your lawn:   A lush and thriving lawn requires the right amount of air and water penetration to allow vital nutrients to enter the soil. If rainfall pools on the grass, it's time to aerate compressed soil so oxygen, water and nutrients can reach the roots. A garden fork can do the job on a small yard. For medium size yards, use a walk-behind aerator that pulls out 2½-to 3-inch-deep soil plugs, which will break down naturally by spring. If you yard is very large, you may want to rent a power yard aerator by the day for a small fee.

Feed your Grass:   Cutting back on fertilizer in late summer prevents perennials from wasting energy on leaf production, however, grass roots keep growing until the ground gets down to around 40 degree.  If you fertilize your lawn only once a year, do it in the fall. A fall application of fertilizer delivers essential nutrients for the grass to grow deep roots now and to keep nutrients on reserve for a healthy start next spring. Wait until mid-to-late fall, then apply a dry lawn fertilizer to all grassy areas; be careful not to miss any spots. Fertilize with a high-phosphorus (12-25-12) mix to encourage roots, so turf is healthier and greener in the earlier spring. You could use a crank-style broadcast spreader, but for optimum coverage, consider using a walk-behind drop spreader. It takes a little longer, especially on hilly yards, but a drop spreader provides the best way to apply an even, consistent layer of fertilizer.

One Final Mow:   Continue to water and mow your lawn, as needed, throughout the fall. Then as the season draws to a close and the weather gets cooler, drop the mower's blade to its lowest setting for the last two cuttings of the year. That will allow more sunlight to reach the crown of the grass, and there will be less leaf to turn brown during the winter. You should trim your lawn down to about 1.25” for the last cut of the season. Fallen leaves blow easier across short grass when there is nothing to cling to and diseases have a harder time growing on shorter blades of grass.

Collect Fallen Leaves:   Be sure to collect all fallen leaves form your lawn (as well as your gutters I know raking leaves is no one's idea of fun, but it's important to remove fallen leaves from your lawn as soon as possible. Don't wait until all the leaves have fallen from the trees to start raking. If you do, the leaves will become wet from rain and morning dew, stick together, and form an impenetrable mat that if left unmoved will suffocate the grass and breed fungal diseases. To make fallen leaves easier to transport, rake them onto a plastic tarp.  If you really want to be yard friendly, add them to a compost bin—a simple chicken-wire pen will do. Flip the leaf pile every week with a garden fork to aerate; the "black gold" that results next year can nourish lawns, flower beds, and shrub borders.

Here are some steps to help get your yard read:

Trim Dead Limbs:   Lifeless branches can succumb to winter snow and high winds, endangering you and your home. For large jobs, make sure to call a professional “Tree Care Specialist” who will be able to remove limbs in a safe and efficient way. But you can protect small ornamental trees from further damage by cutting cracked, loose, and diseased limbs close to but not flush with the trunk. You can leave the wounds exposed to heal. Pruning too soon can harm your trees and shrubs. So, when it comes to fall pruning, procrastination is the way to go. Wait until trees drop their leaves and are dormant—usually October or November.

Cut Back Perennials:   A little work now results in healthier spring beds: Evict tired annuals, as well as the snails and slugs that feed on them, which breed in fall. Trim spent perennial foliage down to the ground; this sends energy to the roots, for next season. Every three years, divide crowded tuberous plants, like irises and daylilies: More space means more flower.

Plant new Shrubs:   In many parts of the country, planting shrubs in early fall gives the plants a head start at establishing roots in the season's cool, moist soil. Make sure to dig a hole twice the diameter and to a depth of 2 inches less than the full height of the root ball; position the shrub in the hole but make sure the top of the root ball remains at, not below, ground level; fill in with soil; water to settle soil; add more soil to top of root ball (don't pack soil down with foot); finish with mulch to help keep plants moist and offer a protective layer.

Mulch Your Plants:   Give new beds a layer of mulch—chopped leaves, weed-free straw, or wood chips—after a light frost, but before the ground freezes. Till decomposed layers of organic mulch into the soil, then apply a fresh 2- to 4-inch layer to keep new plantings warm and to control water runoff and soil erosion. Applying more than 4 inches of mulch may result in mothering the roots of your plants and is not recommended.

Dry Out Water System:   Standing water can freeze and crack drip-irrigation tubing in the colder months as well as give mosquitoes a perfect habitat in warmer fall weather. For simple systems, it’s recommended to turn the water off, unscrews the tap-joint adapter, and, using a high-volume, low-pressure setting on a compressor, inserts an air hose where the system normally attaches to the tap.  Blowing the water out avoids having to uproot the entire system.

Give your yard and lawn a little attention now, and you'll be rewarded with lush, healthy grass, trees and flower gardens come spring.

Be Passionate about what you do!

If you have seen any of my video's on our Facebook page, you know that I am passionate about trees and helping people.  It has been said "If you love what you do, you will never work a day in your life."  That's the way I feel about what I do every day!  From the very beginning I have loved seeing trees in a different light.  I see trees as what they could become not what they are.  Correcting tree issues is more preferable to me than simply removing them.

What are you passionate about?  If you don't know, well, why not spend time thinking about it.  What I mean is if your not passionate about what you do for a living, the job you go to every day, the thing that you spend a majority of your waking hours doing.

When you discover that thing, pursue it.  Go after what ever that thing is and enjoy life.  Don't be satisfied with mediocrity.

I have a friend who was happy at his job in the insurance industry.  He made a decent salary, had benefits, and vacation.  He enjoyed the work and the people he worked with.  Then something happened.  He began to work with teenagers at his church.  This one act of service ignited a hidden passion for working with young people.   This discovery led to a complete career change and a new path for his life and the life of his family.

He became a high school teacher.  This career change required further education and training to be an effective educator.

It has been 15 years since my friend made that change from being happy with what he did to being passionate about it.  I'm not saying teaching is a bed of roses every day for him, but he loves what he does.

So now it's your turn.  Discover what you love and work towards doing what ever that is.  It may require effort, education, training, and time, but in the end it will be well worth it.

How to know if a tree is dying

Trees die, just as other organisms do, and will show some definite signs when they are dying or dead. The biggest mistake the average homeowner makes when buying a home or owning a home is that they don’t look up! Every once in a while when you are out working in your yard look up at your trees.  

Knowing what to look for when looking at your trees is important. You can see signs of a dying tree in the leaves, branches, bark and trunk.

Deciduous trees, which lose all their leaves each winter, have most signs in common with evergreen trees, which never lose all their leaves at once.  Deciduous trees may drop their leaves during the growing season if they are dying. If the leaves turn brown and brittle during the growing season, the tree may be dying. Yellow leaves on a tree that usually has green leaves are also a sign of a problem.

Evergreen trees will start to show red or brown needles. Once the top third of the plant has needles that are red or brown, the tree is definitely dying. Trees showing yellow needles are stressed and may be dying.

Look for holes, cracks and peeling bark. Bark will become loose and start falling off a dying tree. It may sport fungus or holes where wood-boring insects like Termites, Wood Cockroach or Paloverde Root Borer have made homes in it. Brittle bark is also a bad sign. Bark beetles indicate dying bark. Places that are bare of bark are a sign of problems, this means that side of the tree is not getting any nutrients.  Carpenter ants are a sign of deadwood. Rows of holes from boring insects are also a sign that the tree is in trouble.  Fungus on the trunk is a sign of dead and decaying wood.

When branches lose their bark, those branches are dead. A branch that is starting to lose its bark is dying. In extreme cases, branches will break off when dead. When too many of the branches break off, the tree will die. Note that some trees, such as pecan trees, are self-pruning and the lower branches will fall off when nothing is wrong with the tree.

Fungus may grow on dead branches. It only grows on decaying wood, so whatever portion of the branch it is on is dead. Wood boring insects will also move in when a tree is dying. Branches start showing holes where the insects have made homes or bored holes to eat the wood.

If you are cutting the grass and every week you have to pick up branches, then there is a good chance that the tree needs a little tree trimming. Sometimes it is a little harder to tell in the winter if you have any dead in the tree. If you know what you are looking for you will be able to spot some dead limbs. The best time to evaluate a tree is in the spring when the leaves come on. Look up into the canopy for branches with no leaves. If more then 1/3 of the tree does not have leaves then that is a sign that the tree might have to be removed. If you are not sure, call Goodfellers Tree Service at 540-710-9665 to have our ISA certified Arborist come out and take a look

Here is a great website on Signs of a dying tree:

http://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/tgen/what-does-a-dying-tree-look-like-signs-that-a-tree-is-dying.htm

Asian Tiger Mosquitos in Virginia!

Each region in Virginia is unique as far as mosquitoes go. For example, only in the coastal communities will you experience the pesky "salt marsh" mosquitoes. If you live near woods that have a lot of standing water in the spring, you may notice the common spring time mosquito, Ochlerotatus canadensis.  

Most everyone has likely observed or been bitten by the Asian tiger mosquito also know as Aedes albopictus . The Asian tiger is an exotic and invasive mosquito that has become a significant pest throughout Virginia as well as other parts of the U.S.  Aedes albopictus is a mosquito native to the tropical and subtropical areas of Southeast Asia; however, in the past couple of decades this species has invaded many countries throughout the world through the transport of goods and increasing international travel.  It is characterized by its black and white striped legs, and small black and white striped body.  The insect is called a tiger mosquito because its striped appearance is similar to that of a tiger.

This mosquito has become a significant pest in many communities because it closely associates with humans (rather than living in wetlands), and typically flies and feeds in the daytime in addition to at dusk and dawn.   Like other mosquito species, only the females require a blood meal to develop their eggs. Female mosquito's drink blood from humans, domestic and wild mammals, reptiles, amphibians, and birds. Apart from that, they feed on nectar and other sweet plant juices just as the males do.  Male mosquito's, as well as very young mosquito's, are vegetarian and eat plant matter.

It is known that the Tiger Mosquito can transmit pathogens and viruses, such as the Yellow fever virus, Dengue fever and Chikungunya fever.  The tiger mosquito is also relevant to veterinary medicine. For example, tiger mosquitoes are transmitters of Dirofilaria immitis, a parasitic round worm that causes heartworm in dogs and cats.

Primarily, other mosquito larvae, flatworms, swimming beetles, fungi, ciliates, paramecia, protozoans which act as parasites, predatory copepods and spiders are natural enemies of the larval stage of Asian tiger mosquitoes. 

Asian tiger mosquitoes lay their eggs ONLY in "containers" of water or tree holes, however it only needs 1/4" depth to complete its life cycle. The larvae only take 5 to 10 days after hatching to go into the resting stage know as the pupa. Approximately 2 days later the adult mosquito is born. This mosquito does not lay her eggs in ground puddles, ponds, or ditches, and the best way to control the Asian tiger is by eliminating its breeding places. Some common eggs sites are old tires, flowerpots, buckets, kiddie pools, birdbaths, rain gutters, tree holes, even trash. Some eggs can also overwinter meaning they will stay in water when weather is to cold and will start their life cycle in Spring.

Learn more about the Asian tiger mosquito and ways to eliminate breeding places around your home.

http://www.mosquito-va.org/pdfs/asiantiger.pdf

Causes of Forest Fires

We are in the midst of Forest Fire season which runs from through October.  Although the risk wildfires is Virginia is, according to wildfiretoday.com, below normal to normal later in the season, there is no reason to not be diligent in protecting our forests and properties.  Having knowledge of the causes is a good start to preventing fires.  

Causes of Forest Fires

Wildfires can be ignited by a variety of occurrences. In addition to lightning, human-related activities start a large number of fires every year. Unattended or out-of-control campfires, a discarded burning cigarette, arson, or even equipment use can set off a blaze.

Once a forest fire has started, many factors contribute to its spread and intensity.

• Fuel - such as leaves, needles, grass, branches, and logs
• Weather, including temperature, humidity, precipitation, and wind
• Topography, or landscape of the area, as steep slopes offer greater potential for increased fire intensity and more obstacles for fire fighting.

More than 83% of forest fires in 2006 were started by human activities, accounting for the burning of nearly 4.4 million acres. However, lightning-caused fires burned more total area - nearly 5.5 million acres. *

* Source: National Interagency Fire Center

https://www.arborday.org/replanting/firecauses.cfm

Is There a Difference Between Maple Syrup and Table Syrup?

IS THERE A DIFFERENCE BETWEEN MAPLE SYRUP AND TABLE SYRUP?

In a Blog called the Exchange The 'McKenty Books' forum on life and current events. The author writes "Catharine and I often have brunch at a well-known Montreal restaurant named Beauty’s.  We always order the same items.  Fresh orange juice, blueberry pancakes and bacon.  Catharine orders the more  expensive real maple syrup.  I use the regular table syrup and it is perfectly satisfactory to me.

It is true, however, that it is all too easy to misrepresent real maple syrup.  Rigtht now two American senators have a bill in the hopper that would impose tougher sanctions for the marketing of  other syrups as maple syrup.

Table syrup is sickly sweet.  While maple syrup may be expensive, even a small amount transforms a plain waffle or pancake, a simple slice of ham or cube of tofu, or a mustardy salad dressing.

But does Canada do enough to protect maple syrup?  Quebec forbids the use of the word “maple”  or of maple-leaf shapes or pictures, on any bottle that does not contain 100 per-cent pure maple syrup.   But Quebec is the only province that does this?  Some restaurants still pass off inferior syrups and most customers do not notice or they acquiesce.

Is there a difference between maple syrup and table syrup?"

http://neilmckenty.com/2011/11/27/is-there-a-difference-between-maple-syrup-and-table-syrup/ 

Well I certainly agree with the author, there is a difference!  I grew up on table syrup and the infamous Aunt Jemima Syrup.  What kid would not want to have a talking bottle on their breakfast table?  It was all I knew. That is until a family member introduced it to me.  I was, I admit, skeptical at first.  After all it did not look like the syrup I was used too, it was too thin and did not have that rich dark color of my talking bottle syrup.  However the difference was in the taste.  It was amazing, and to think, this came from a TREE!  Amazing.....

Not only doe it taste amazing it has one ingredient:  Sap.  This sap comes from Maple Trees.  It takes about 40 gallons of Maple Sap to make one gallon of Maple Syrup.

Table syrup ingredients include: corn syrup, high fructose corn syrup, water, natural and artificial flavors, cellulose gum, salt, caramel color, sodium benzoate, sorbic acid, and sodium hexametaphosphate.  Hmmmm I cant even pronounce some of that.

I have to go with natural maple syrup....In fact for a product to be called Maple Syrup it must be made almost entirely from sap.  Taste is not the only difference; price difference between the two syrups is substantial.  While table syrup only costs about 14 cents per once, maple syrup costs about a dollar per once.  Is it worth it?  That depends....to me it is.  Each year for Christmas I receive a quart of Maple Syrup, which will last me about a year.

Thanks for reading.....

Hurricane Season

Living here in Virginia, only a hundred mile from the Atlantic Coast, can be challenging during hurricane season.  Don't get me wrong we are not in nearly as much danger of hurricanes as states like Florida, Louisiana and Texas but there is the occasional hurricane that slips up the east coast into Virginia such as Hurricane Isabel in 2003, Hurricane Gaston in 2004, and Hurricane Irene in 2011 ( http://www.midatlantichurricanes.com/Virginia.html).  So we still need to be smart about hurricane preparedness.

Hurricane preparedness week just ended (May 24-31) in fact in VA that week is tax free for certain items such as: batteries and flashlights; bottled water and coolers; tarps, plastic sheeting and duct tape; smoke detectors and fire extinguishers; portable radios; cell phone chargers; first aid kits and more. Portable generators and inverters also are included as well as chainsaws and chainsaw accessories (http://www.vaemergency.gov/readyvirginia/stay-informed/hurricanes/sales-tax-holiday).

According to Hallie Dozier & Steven Wright stated that "for many homeowners, the visible and physical impact of the destruction of trees and property during storm events is enough to prompt them to engage in “chainsaw backlash,” or the unnecessary removal of perfectly good, sound trees. We have all seen it – a neighbor takes down a beautiful tree because he or she is afraid of what might happen when a storm strikes. And with the tree go all of the benefits that trees provide: cleaner air and water, soil conservation, climate moderation, higher property values, shade and beauty" (http://www.lsuagcenter.com/en/lawn_garden/home_gardening/trees_shrubs/Make+Wise+Tree+Removal+Decisions+before+a+Hurricane.htm).  Additionally they recommend hiring an arborist, then "the homeowner will have the best expertise for examining each tree for signs of decay or weakness and help assessing the overall health and vitality of the tree".

So now what?  I will tell you;  If you have not already done so put together a hurricane preparedness kit.  I found a pdf file which provides you a list at https://www.uscg.mil/d7/airstaBorinquen/docs/HurricanePage/Suggested%20Hurricane%20Supply%20Kits%20.pdf.  or just scroll down to end of this blog.  

Next...Call Goodfellers Tree & Excavating (540-710-9665) to have one of our Certified Arborist inspect your trees and provide you a free inspection, a comprehensive action plan and a break down of costs per item.  This way you can choose which work you want done now and do the rest later, or just have all of your tree needs met at one time.  You can take comfort in our experience.

What if choose to do nothing.  Well....a friend did just that in 2003 when Isabel hit Virginia and hit her hard.  He had not prepared and lost power for almost two weeks, he also lost trees and had damage done by falling limbs that should have been trimmed.  He had no clean water and had a pretty tough time.  If this happens to you, we will be there for you providing you emergency tree removal services.  However, don't be like my friend!  Be prepared.....Call Goodfellers today!!!

Here is that list I mentioned earlier:

Suggested Hurricane Supply List

To prepare for the unknown, each home should have a 72-hour Disaster Survival Kit. You will need to pack some essential items to help you and your family survive, whether you stay at home or leave it during a disaster. Ensure at least three days (72 hours) supply for each person. Do not forget pets where applicable!

The following is a minimum suggested list of Survival Kit supplies:

Drinking Water: ƒ One gallon per person/per day in unbreakable containers, Avoid using containers that will decompose or break,l such as milk cartons or glass bottles. A normally active person needs to drink at least two quarts of water each day. Hot environments and intense physical activity can double that amount. Children, nursing mothers, and ill people will need more. ƒ Don’t forget to add additional water for mixing formula if you have children and for your pets. Rotate the drinking water each year. ƒ
Food preparation and sanitation require another two quarts (minimum) per person daily. ƒ Purchased bottled water that has been sealed is best for storage. It meets FDA guidelines for food and is not as vulnerable to temperature changes as unsealed water ƒ Tip: Purchase water this year and use it for drinking next year. This allows for rotation on an annual basis and keeps the water fresh. Yes water can go bad!

Water for sanitation use: ƒ Store extra containers of water to be used for flushing toilets, cleaning, and bathing. ƒ Purchase water purification tablets (Halazone) to be used if you still have running water but are told to boil water before using it. This allows you to fill the bathtub and other containers without purchasing expensive drinking water. ƒ Tip: Keep plastic containers (milk jugs and other containers) and fill them with water when a storm threatens. You can put these items in the freezer to keep food cold longer in the event that the electricity goes out.

Non-perishable Food: ƒ Maintain at least 3-7 days of food for each member of the family. ƒ Small, preferably single serving cans (should not require cooking or refrigeration). Dried fruit, peanut butter and jelly, coffee, tea, soft drinks and pet foods. ƒ Ready-to-eat canned meats, fruits and vegetables. ƒ Canned juices, milk, soup (if powdered, store extra water). ƒ Staples – sugar, salt, pepper in water proof containers. ƒ High energy foods like crackers, granola bars, trail mix. ƒ Raw vegetables that do not need refrigeration. ƒ Fresh bread. • Comfort/stress foods – cookies, hard candy, sweetened cereals, lollipops, instant coffee, tea bags. • Sterno for cooking. • Vitamins • Food for infants ƒ Paper cups, plates, and plastic utensils ƒ Non-electric can opener ƒ Aluminum foil ƒ Plastic storage containers ƒ Lots of ice (you can freeze your water supply) ƒ Pedialyte (to restore hydration if needed) ƒ Tip: Purchase only items that you like to eat and would eat even without a storm. Rotate these items by using them Dec-May each year and purchasing new items Jan-May. This allows you to reduce the cost of buying items for a hurricane kit at one time and keeps the items fresh. Yes even canned goods have a shelf life!

Baby Needs: ƒ Special foods (enough for several days) ƒ Formula (enough for several days) ƒ Extra diapers ƒ Medicines (get a copy of prescription) ƒ Blankets ƒ Diaper Rash Ointment ƒ Baby Wipes ƒ Powder ƒ Bottles ƒ Pacifier ƒ Favorite toy/blanket ƒ Medicine dropper ƒ Diaper-rash ointment

Sanitation: ƒ Toilet paper, towelettes, soap, baby wipes, liquid hand sanitzer • Liquid detergent • Feminine supplies • Personal hygiene items (toothpaste, deodorant, shampoo etc.) • Plastic garbage bags, ties (for personal sanitation uses) • Plastic bucket with tight lid • Household chlorine bleach, disinfectant • Plenty of absorbent towels First Aid Kit • Assemble a first aid kit for your home and one for each car. • Adhesive bandages various sizes -- Sterile gauze pads (various sizes) • Germicidal hand wipes or waterless alcohol-based hand sanitizer • Non-latex gloves -- Adhesive tape -- Anti-bacterial ointment -- Antiseptic spray • Cold packs (non refrigerated type) – Scissors – Tweezers -- Rubbing alcohol • CPR breathing barrier, such as a face shield -- Thermometer, Safety pins. Non-Prescription Drugs • Aspirin or nonaspirin pain reliever, Benadryl, peroxide • Anti-diarrhea medication, Antacid (for stomach upset) • Syrup of Ipecac (use to induce vomiting if advised by the Poison Control Center) • Laxative • Activated charcoal (use if advised by the Poison Control Center) Prescription Drugs • Heart and high blood pressure medication • Insulin (enough for a 30 day supply) • Hearing Aid and extra batteries • Prescription drugs • Denture needs • Contact lenses and supplies • Extra eye glasses • Tip: If your insurance will allow, get a 90 day supply of prescriptions and have at least a 30 day supply on hand. n’t wait until a couple of days before a storm to go to the p you may not get your prescription refilled; the lines are very quickly. Do pharmacy for refills long and they run out of supplies

Clothing and Bedding: Include at least one complete change of clothing and footwear per person. • Sturdy shoes or work boots • Towels • Rain gear • Blankets or sleeping bags • Pillows • Hat and gloves • Sunglasses • Tent • Lawn chairs Entertainment • Games • Books • Cards • Extra batteries for gamesColoring books, crayons.

Miscellaneous: • Wind-up or battery-operated clock • Paper, pencil • Needles, thread • Camping utensils • Map of the area (for locating shelters) and returning to the area. • Cash or traveler's checks • Tip: Have enough cash to sustain you through a 2 week period. Without electricity, most businesses (if open) will not accept credit cards and may not accept traveler’s checks. • Emergency preparedness manual • Citronella candles Tools and Supplies: Masking and/or duct tape Handsaw Razor knife Ax or chain saw Nails and screws Ladder Portable generator Wheelbarrow Bucket/mop, broom Fire extinguisher Hammer Screwdriver Pliers/wrenches Rope caulk All purpose cleaner Sandbags Shovel, rake Plywood Plastic sheet/drop cloth Bleach Tarps to cover roof Portable a/c unit BBQ grill Extra filled propane tanks Utility knife Fire extinguisher: small canister ABC type Compass Tape, duct tape Signal flare Battery operated radio with extra batteries Bug repellant Sun screen (2-3) Flashlights with extra batteries and bulbs Matches in a waterproof container Shut-off wrench to turn off household gas and water Whistle Not evacuating and staying home? ƒ

Ensure you have enough food, water, medications, and other supplies in your survival kit to last at least 2 weeks. ƒ Turn refrigerator to coldest setting and keep closed. ƒ Turn off propane tanks. ƒ Unplug small appliances. ƒ Fill bathtub and other containers with water for cleaning and flushing. Additional water is stored for drinking. ƒ Cover all windows and other openings with hardened protections. If you do not have manufactured shutters, cut plywood and secure to protect the windows. ƒ Close all interior doors and brace outer doors. ƒ Select an interior room to use as a safe room. ƒ Plan as though you were evacuating and have enough cash on hand to sustain purchasing of gas, food, and other supplies in the days following the storm. ƒ If you have a generator, ensure you have enough gas on hand to sustain usage for several days. ƒ Ensure you have sufficient medications in case you are confined to your home for several days. Post-storm there may not be any electricity and pharmacies will probably closed even with a minor storm. ƒ Plan to cook on a camp stove or grill in the days immediately after the storm passes.

I hope you enjoyed reading this blog!  Please follow us on Twitter https://twitter.com/Goodfellers408 and like us on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/goodfellerstreeandexcavating.  God Bless and have a very uneventful hurricane season.

Caring for Your Trees in the Summer Heat

Summer in Virginia seems to have arrived a little early this year.  Madeline Hagaman's June 14, 2013 Blog at http://www.bestpickreports.com/blog/post/caring-for-your-trees-in-the-summer-heat#.VWcRls9VgSU discusses ways to care for your trees during the intense summer heat.  After watching the Back to Eden documentary I could not agree more with using mulch to retail soil moisture.  So enjoy this informative article and put in place strategies that will work on your property.  Remember that trees are our friends!  :  )

Caring for Your Trees in the Summer Heat

2

By Madeline Hagaman | Technical Writer

Establishing a summer tree care plan is essential to keeping trees healthy during hot days, droughts, and summer storms. Follow these tree care tips to make sure your trees are getting the support they need to survive and thrive throughout the summer.

Mulching. Most trees love oxygen-rich soil full of organic debris and nutrients, but this forest-like environment is not typically found in our backyards or in urban landscapes. Mulch mimics this ideal habitat for trees and provides a host of essential benefits to trees in the summer. Mulching will help to:

• Retain soil moisture
• Suppress weed growth
• Cut down on competition for water with grass or other vegetation
• Remove the need to mow near the trunk, which will protect the root system

TreesAreGood.org, an education site managed by the International Society of Arboriculture, recommends putting down no more than two to four inches of mulch. Also, avoid piling mulch up against the root flare, the portion where roots begin to fan out from the trunk. Mulch should ideally cover the entire area underneath the canopy.

Fertilizing. Slow-release fertilizer should be given to trees in early spring, which will provide benefits until the next treatment in the fall. Fertilizers are labeled by three sequential numbers. The first number represents nitrogen content, followed by the phosphorous content and ending with the potassium content. Consult with a professional arborist who can perform a soil analysis test and determine the appropriate fertilizer ratio and dosage for your trees.

Watering. The amount of water to give a tree depends on the soil type, recent weather conditions, the age and type of the tree, and nearby vegetation that could compete for water. Intense heat during the summer can often evaporate water before it’s able to be taken in by the roots. Keep the following points in mind when watering your trees:

• The Georgia Forestry Commission recommends watering at night or in the early morning when it’s cooler, which will limit water loss through evaporation.
• While there are many delivery methods suitable for trees, water should be delivered slowly to give the roots enough time to soak it up, particularly in sandier soils that drain quickly.
• Give your trees lots of water periodically to encourage a deep root system. Briefly watering your trees on a daily basis will foster a shallow root system and root rot.
• Overwatering can cause just as many problems as lack of water because the roots are unable to absorb oxygen, essentially drowning.

Note: Consult with a certified arborist to determine a water regimen appropriate for your trees in the summer.

Dealing with drought. Tree loss is common during droughts, so it’s important to establish a preventative treatment plan. The Texas A&M Forest Service reports that 301 million trees were lost as a direct impact of the 2011 drought in Texas. Aside from limited water and scorching sun, local pests can also be a bigger threat during droughts. TreeCareTips.org, managed by the Tree Care Industry Association, reports that during an extended drought in Georgia several years ago, regional pests began appearing much earlier than expected, wreaking havoc on the weakened and water-starved trees. Droughts are extremely important times to consult with a professional arborist who can help mitigate drought-related problems. During drought conditions, local authorities often place restrictions on water usage, so consider alternative methods of procuring water for your trees, such as installing a rain barrel or recycling clean water from your home.

Dealing with summer storms. Water supply can be feast or famine in the summer. While trees tend to love the extra rain, heavy winds and lightning can cause severe damage. Experts often recommend preventative pruning, which entails thinning the branches at the top of the crown and removing dead or dying branches. When properly performed, preventative pruning reduces wind resistance, which may help to reduce limb loss during heavy storms. A professional arborist can also identify weak branches that may benefit from bracing and cabling. If storm damage to trees occurs, it’s best to bring in a professional who can determine the best and safest course of action.

Sources: Arbor Day Foundation; Fairfax County Virginia; Georgia Forestry Commission; International Society of Arboriculture; Texas A&M Forest Service; Tree Care Industry Association; United States Department of Agriculture, Forest Service; Virginia Department of Forestry.

Pollen and Allergies

I just read on livestrong.com that Virginia is on the top 10 worst states for allergies.  I can see why on my truck and my wife's car and my neighbors car, and the cars at the grocery store etc. etc. etc.  A fine green mist covers my deck, in fact it covers everything outside.  It seems that the face of the entire state of Virginia is coated in green pollen.

Not only does this gift from plants make our surroundings look like a scene out of the Wizzard of Oz, but is does wonders on our respiratory system and causes us to sneeze, sneeze, sneeze, and continually wipe or blow our noses from the never ending flow of mucus our bodies are producing to rid ourselves of the green gunk.

My buddy was telling me his wife rarely snores, however during the spring and peak pollen weeks it sounds like a freight train is doing laps in our bed room.  He awoke last night in fear of his life that he was either about to be run over by a runaway train or be eaten alive by the Sasquatch in my bedroom.  But all kidding aside, she was miserable trying to get a good nights sleep while dealing with this nasty little gift of nature.

According to wisegeek.com:

"Pollen grains are a fine dust that plants typically release in spring. They carry the plant's male DNA from the stamen, or male part of the plant, to the pistil, or female part of the plant, in the process known as pollination. Pollination makes fertilization and reproduction possible in plants. Tree pollen is simply the pollen produced by trees. It is a common allergen, though there are only about 100 species of trees that cause reactions in those who suffer from tree pollen allergies. Tree pollen allergies account for about 20% of hay fever symptoms as well." 
Retrieved on April 30, 2015 from:http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-tree-pollen.htm

CBSnews.com reports that this years pollen season may be as green and angry as the Incredible Hulk.  Jessica Firger in her March 24, 2015 article wrote that allergy season arrived early this year and may be shorter than normal, however it will be quite intense.  If your interested you can read her full article at http://www.cbsnews.com/news/spring-allergy-season-has-arrived/.

So the good news is the pollen may have a shorter than normal life span, the bummer......well just look around, EVERYTHING is GREEN.  Keep your chin up.....no really.  At night prop up your pillows to foster nasal drainage, keep your tissues handy, and visit your favorite pharmacy for some over the counter medication such at Allegra, Zyrtec, or Claritin and pray for frequent rain showers like we are getting today to cleanse the air, our cars, houses, decks, driveways and on and on and on.....

Till next time.....

Wood Chip Gardening

So I posted a video called "Back to Eden - A Documentary About Organic Gardening".  This video focuses on a garden in Washington state and its gardener Paul Gautschi.  It's basis is on biblical principals of how nature grows plants.  I thought to myself, "well I've tried just about everything else with less than desirable results".  My journey began today.

On the way home today I stopped at Quail Ridge for a scoop of mushroom compost. Once home, as instructed I laid down a layer of newspaper, and some cardboard as a base layer then using a  pitchfork I covered the base layer with 3-4 inches of compost.  Tomorrow I will pick up a load of wood chips from a pile the power company left after trimming trees near power lines and put 2-3 inches on top of the compost then repeat the whole process until my entire garden area is covered.  I hope to have this done by the end of April.

At some point in the documentary they mentioned worms.  Do worms just start showing up? or Do I go to the local bait shop and buy some for my garden?  I may have to do a bit more research.

The next blog will have some pictures to go along with my progress.

Since this will require lots of wood chips.  Give Goodfellers a call 540-710-9665 to schedule an appointment with our certified arborist or visit goodfellertreeco.com and complete the "I Need an Estimate" section.  We recycle 100% of tree waste!

Climbing Trees, No longer just for kids...

I'm not sure how many children climb trees today, but as a child it was a favorite activity of mine.  My mother, now that's a different story.  I loved having the ability to leap up and reach the lower branches of mature trees or to shimmy up the trunk of a tree to get to a place where I could begin climbing.  No helmet, no ropes, no body harness and up I went climbing to the top where the branches began to narrow and thin; where I could feel the tree move as the mild breeze made it's way through the canopy of the tree.  I can remember being at the top of my favorite tree dreaming about what it would be like to have the ability to fly like a bird and to be able to sit at the top of the tallest trees or to wonder what it would be like live in a tree like a squirrel.  I would imagine I was in the eagles nest atop the tallest mast of an old ship.  Those were fun times, memorable times, times that I could escape for just a little while the realities of my world.

 Fast forward 2014.....I'm a bit older, heavier, and not nearly as agile.  Safety is now a national concern, my daughters wore bike helmets,  and elbow and knee pads when roller skating.  There are plenty of resources on how to do just about anything "safely", and that includes climbing trees.  In fact in 1983 an organization called Tree Climbers International was formed.  It is an organization that is solely dedicated to and for people who love to climb trees.

According to their web site http://treeclimbing.com/ it is a worldwide organization.  I found the information below from treeclimbing.com's about us section.

Tree Climbers International^®, Inc. (TCI^®) is a worldwide organization of people who love to climb trees. We do this safely and with utmost care for the trees we climb. TCI is also the world's first school for recreational tree climbers. We want the sport of "rope and saddle" tree climbing available everywhere so that everyone can experience the joy and wonder of seeing the world from the heights of the treetops!

Peter and Patty (with amazing help) at the top of a Douglas fir.
Portland, Oregon, 2012. (Photo courtesy August Schilling)TCI was started by Peter "Treeman" Jenkins, a retired rock and mountain climber-turned tree surgeon (now an ISA-certified arborist). Peter found that the equipment used in rock climbing did not always fit the needs of climbing something alive and fragile as a tree, and many of the rock climbers' techniques were downright dangerous in the treetops!

It became clear to Peter that an organization was needed which could bring together people who love tree climbing, as well as train them in the techniques necessary to ensure that they climb safely and responsibly. In 1983, he founded Tree Climbers International and opened the world's first tree climbing school in Atlanta with two big white oak trees, Nimrod and Dianna, and a Mission Statement.

Through the years TCI has written safety and training rules that have become standard for recreational tree climbers. Many of our protocols have been adopted by tree climbing schools around the world. Our organization's practices have made it possible for tens of thousands of people to adventure high in the treetops without injuring themselves or the trees being climbed. In fact, to this day there has never been an injury where climbers use TCI techniques and safety protocols for recreational tree climbing activities.

In 2005, Peter's wife Patty took over the "operations end" of TCI. While he teaches and is the climbing expert, she runs virtually every other aspect of our operations, maintains our website, and is usually on site at our events. Patty is not a climber (she had polio as a child), but she loves what she does and the people she meets as Executive Director of TCI.

Click the links at right to read some of the articles that have been written about us, look through our early  publications, and see some of the videos that have been created about tree climbing. There is a great deal of valuable information in those materials, and alot that will make you laugh!

TCI Mission Statement

Tree Climbers International, Inc. promotes tree climbing as a safe recreational activity
suitable for people of all ages.

Our goals are to:

• Discover and promote technical tree climbing techniques that are safe for people and
  do no harm to trees.
• Provide qualified tree climbing instruction by highly-trained instructors.
• Produce and distribute educational and inspiring publications to promote safe recreational tree climbing.
• Create climbing chapters (or "groves" ) in every city, town, or hamlet worldwide.
• Hold periodic regional, national, and international tree climbing gatherings.
• Create a communication network of tree climbing enthusiasts through our website and publications.
• Locate and secure access to climbing trees suitable for recreational climbing.
• Promote respect and responsibility towards trees and the natural environment.
• Have fun exploring the high canopy while sharing adventures with like-minded people.

Tree Trimming Safety

The United States Department of Labor has e-published the OSHA guidelines for tree trimming and removal safety.

 

Tree Trimming & Removal
Safety

Assume that All Power Lines Are Energized!

• Contact the utility company to discuss de-energizing and grounding or shielding of power lines.
• All tree trimming or removal work within ten feet of a power line must be done by trained and experienced line-clearance tree trimmers. A second tree trimmer is required within normal voice communication range.
• Line-clearance tree trimmers must be aware of and maintain the proper minimum approach distances when working around energized power lines.
• Use extreme caution when moving ladders and equipment around downed trees and power lines.

Stay Alert at All Times!

• Do not trim trees in dangerous weather conditions.
• Perform a hazard assessment of the work area before starting work.
• Eliminate or minimize exposure to hazards at the tree and in the surrounding area.
• Operators of chain saws and other equipment should be trained and the equipment properly maintained.
• Use personal protective equipment such as gloves, safety glasses, hard hats, hearing protection, etc., recommended in the equipment manufacturer’s operating manual.
• Determine the tree’s felling direction. Address forward lean, back lean, and/or side lean issues.
• Determine the proper amount of hinge wood to safely guide the tree’s fall. Provide a retreat path to a safe location.
• Inspect tree limbs for strength and stability before climbing. Tree trimmers working aloft must use appropriate fall protection.
• Do not climb with tools in your hands.
• If broken trees are under pressure, determine the direction of the pressure and make small cuts to release it.
• Use extreme care when felling a tree that has not fallen completely to the ground and is lodged against another tree.
• Never turn your back on a falling tree.
• Be alert and avoid objects thrown back by a tree as it falls.

Retrieved on March 13, 2015 from:https://www.osha.gov/Publications/3301-10-05-english-06-27-2007.html 

Seasonal Tree Care and Maintenance

I found this web site after publishing the last blog "Seasons": http://www.theserviceguide.com/pages/tree_care_maintenance_calendar.asp

Providing proper care and maintenance for the trees on your property will enhance their health and well-being for the longevity of their lives. You, too, benefit by having healthy and beautiful trees, as they ultimately help enhance your home’s landscape. Knowing what to do for your trees and when can help. Below is a convenient calendar of tree care maintenance organized for you by season. This information is provided compliments of Rainbow Treecare.

 

Seasonal Calendar of Tree Care Maintenance

for Northern Climates

           

Note that time frames are approximate, variations occur due to difference in the weather every year.

January and February                                

• Winter is a good time to prune most trees.
  • When the leaves are off the trees it is easier to identify structural problems for correction or dead wood for removal.
  • Insects and disease problems are not active in the winter, eliminating the possibility of infection into fresh pruning wounds.
  • Winter is a good time to remove a tree especially if heavy equipment is required to do the work. The frozen ground and snow cover reduces the amount of damage that may be done to the lawn.

March

• Pruning of oaks and elms should be done by the end of the month in most years.
  • Pruning of trees and shrubs without disease or insect concerns will continue the entire season
• When the snow melts we begin to prune shrubs; shaping and removing winter damaged or dead stems.
• When the ground thaws we can begin Rootcare fertilization of trees and shrubs with our slow release fertilizer.

April and May

• We begin monitoring plant development and weather conditions in order to time treatments for insects and diseases. (Proper timing of pesticide applications is key to successful control.)
  • Early spring is the time to treat some insects such as pine saw flies and those that cause galls.
  • Fungal disease sprays like apple scab and anthracnose are done to protect new growth.
  • The systemic insecticide, Merit, is applied in early spring to control some insects later in the season on shrubs and small trees. Your Consulting Arborist will advise you regarding this treatment.
• The lawn care division gears up for another year and as the soil temperatures warm up; a pre-emergent herbicide is applied to control crabgrass and many broadleaf weeds.
  • When the grass begins to actively grow, the first application of lawn fertilizer is applied.
  • Your Consulting Arborist will help you understand your lawn and it´s specific needs.
• Early flowering trees and shrubs like magnolia, forsythia and lilac should be pruned after flowering in order to preserve the flower buds.
• Application of the plant growth regulator, Cambistat is done to control plant size and improve health in many situations.

June and July

• Symptoms of Dutch elm disease or oak wilt begin to show up in infected trees.
  • Injections to prevent Dutch elm disease begin in early June or when the leaves are fully formed.
  • White and bur oaks infected by oak wilt can be treated therapeutically, and red oaks can be protected against a root graft infection if they are near a diseased red oak.
• Spraying for most leaf fungus diseases will be done by early to mid-July.
• We monitor insect populations and apply treatment where population levels threaten plant health.
• Evergreens are pruned after the new growth is completed.
• The lawn care division is in full swing. Late spring lawn fertilization is done by early to mid-June.
• July is too hot for lawn fertilization, which stresses the grass. However, lawns are monitored for diseases and broadleaf weeds and pesticides are applied if warranted at this time of year.

August, September, and October

• Late summer and early fall is a good time to apply systemic insecticides that will prevent infestations next year.
• Dutch elm disease and oak wilt treatments continue until the leaves turn color in the fall.
• Iron injections to treat chlorosis (yellow leaves) are best done at this time of year.
• More can be done to improve or ensure a healthy lawn at this time of year than at any other time.
  • Late summer and fall are the best times to apply fertilizer because the plants are building crowns and root systems as the top growth slows down. This will mean healthy dense grass next year.
  • Aeration to alleviate compaction and to control thatch is best done in the late summer or fall.
  • This is an ideal time to establish a new lawn or to over seed a thin one. Air temperatures are cooler and soil temperature is warm leading to good germination and healthy new grass.
  • Perennial broadleaf weeds are controlled more effectively by herbicides at this time of year.
• Pruning of trees and shrubs continues throughout the entire season.

November and December

• Tree and shrub fertilization continues until the ground freezes. Our slow release Rootcare Fertilization formula will not promote unwanted late season growth.
• The Pruning Division is getting ready for the winter pruning season.
  • Pruning of oaks and elms starts again after the first hard frost.
  • Shrubs will be pruned until the snow depth makes it impractical to do so. Avoid shearing early spring flowering shrubs now so that the flower buds are not removed.
  • When there are no leaves on the trees it is easier to identify structural problems for correction or dead wood for removal.